Backyard Oven Notes
Bake 05 · The toppings

Toppings for fire: less than you think, drier than you think

Published Sep 1, 2026 · 7 min read

A sparsely topped pizza with tomato, torn mozzarella and basil before the oven

A ninety-second pizza gives its toppings ninety seconds too — so everything on it has to be ready for the fire.

A pizza that takes ninety seconds gives its toppings ninety seconds too — no time to cook down, dry out or get to know each other. That changes everything about what goes on top: raw mushrooms stay raw, wet mozzarella floods the base, a thick sauce steams the dough underneath into a wet grey layer. The rule of the hot oven is less than you think, drier than you think, and every topping in this bake either survives the fire as it is or gets a minute's preparation first.

The sauce: raw, thin, and barely there

No cooking, no simmering: a tin of good whole tomatoes, crushed by hand or blitzed for three seconds, a pinch of salt. That's the sauce. Spread with the back of a spoon in a thin translucent layer — you should see the dough through it — stopping 2 cm from the rim. Two tablespoons for a 30 cm pizza is plenty; three is a swamp. The oven concentrates the tomato in ninety seconds better than any pot could, and a raw sauce tastes brighter than a cooked one. Save the long-simmered sauce for pasta.

Cheese: torn, drained, sparse

Fresh mozzarella is the classic and the trap: straight from its water it releases enough liquid to soak a base. Tear it into thumb-sized pieces an hour ahead, spread them on paper towel, and let them drain. Then use fewer pieces than looks right — eight or nine on a 30 cm pizza, with gaps. The gaps close as it melts, and bare patches of blistered sauce are part of the style, not a mistake. Low-moisture block mozzarella, grated, is the easier alternative and behaves itself; a mix of the two gives the pull and the flavour without the puddle.

The three-item limit. Sauce, cheese, and one or two other things — that's a pizza built for a hot oven. Every item beyond three adds moisture and weight, slows the bake, and muddles the taste. The classic combinations are classic because they respect this: tomato-mozzarella-basil; tomato-mozzarella-salami; white base with mozzarella and one vegetable. If you want six toppings, make two pizzas.

Torn mozzarella draining on paper towel beside a bowl of hand-crushed tomatoes
Drained an hour, torn, used sparingly: the difference between blistered and flooded.

What survives ninety seconds as it is

Thin cured meats (salami, pepperoni, thin ham) crisp at the edges and are perfect. Olives, capers, anchovies, chilli flakes, thinly sliced garlic, cherry tomatoes halved cut-side up, thin slices of red onion — all fine raw, all in small quantities. Soft cheeses in small dots. Hard cheese grated after the bake. Fresh basil, rocket, prosciutto, a good oil — all added after the pizza comes out, where the residual heat wilts the leaves and warms the ham without cooking either.

What needs a minute first

Mushrooms: sliced thin and sautéed dry for two minutes, or they stay squeaky and weep. Peppers, courgettes, aubergine: sliced thin and briefly roasted, grilled or put through the oven mouth on a tray for three minutes while the stone heats. Sausage: crumbled and browned. Spinach: wilted and squeezed dry. Potato: sliced paper-thin and par-cooked. The pattern: anything with a lot of water gets some of it driven off first, so the fire finishes it rather than steaming it.

Order of assembly

  1. Sauce, thin, 2 cm from the rim.
  2. The wet things that need protecting from direct flame (mozzarella, soft cheeses).
  3. The things that want to crisp on top (salami, onion, prepared vegetables).
  4. A thread of oil on the rim if you like it glossy.
  5. Everything green, raw or delicate: after the bake, on the board.

Build in under a minute (Bake 04 explains why), shake the peel, launch.

A finished pizza on a board with basil and a drizzle of oil added after baking
Basil after, oil after: the residual heat does the last ten seconds on the board.

Questions from the topping table

Pineapple, barbecue sauce, the divisive ones — do they work in a hot oven?

Anything works if it respects moisture and quantity. Pineapple drained and in small pieces is fine; a thick sweet sauce burns in ninety seconds and should be drizzled after, not spread before. The oven doesn't have opinions about toppings, only about water and sugar.

A white pizza with no tomato?

A thread of oil and a little crushed garlic in place of the sauce, cheese, one topping. Cooks slightly faster because there's less moisture; watch for the top colouring at sixty seconds. Some of our favourites are white — potato and rosemary, courgette and lemon zest, mushroom and thyme.

My cheese keeps burning before the base is done.

Too much cheese, too close to the flame, or a gas burner on high. Use less, keep the flame moderate, and try the doming trick in reverse: bake with the pizza further from the fire, then bring it close for the last fifteen seconds.

Pizzas done and the oven still at 350°C — don't waste it: the cooling oven.

Next bake in the oven

Launch and turn — Why the build has to be fast.Dough for a hot oven — The base under the toppings.Pizza night for eight — The topping table for a crowd.